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[edit] Track selection

Without proper trackwork, you will not be able to run your trains with DC or DCC. This article gives general principles for model railroading and may differ amount the various scales.

The most important item is track. Cheap track will be a constant source of irritation and will end up being replaced anyway, if it doesn't make you give up the hobby altogether. Stainless steel is great for outdoor applications, however, it's quite expensive. It can take abuse and it will last forever. Other types of track are available for less money, but don't buy it. Everything depends on the track. If you are running live steam, or by onboard battery, you will not need to worry about the conductivity or cleanliness. In this case, solid brass track is a great low cost alternative.

For indoor layouts, nickel silver rail is the way to go. Brass is high maintenance, as the oxides that form are non-conductive. The oxides that form on nickel silver are conductive, meaning less cleaning is required compared to brass. Nickel silver also looks more realistic than brass. While the main advantage of nickel silver is reduced cleanings, that comes at a price. Nickel silver has a higher resistance to current flow than brass. This requires a lot more wiring to feed the track. Still, this is a minor problem compared to the maintenance issues surrounding brass.

Also, we must address the matter of curves. Pre-formed track comes in many different radiuses. You can also buy flexible track and form your own curves. Many argue that all track should be flex track as it offers the most realistic operations. Also, flex track can be laid by newcomers quite easily and quickly.

Expect to pay around $3.00 to $4.00 per foot for the track, plus roadbed materials.

You're probably thinking "That's great, but what curve should I use? 4 feet? 8 feet? 12 feet?

[edit] Curvature

It's been said that the trains look and perform better on large radius curves. However, if you have a small space, don't worry, you can still run a great layout. No, you won't be able to run an Aristo SD-45 around a 24 inch radius curve, but you can run smaller locomotives and have just as much fun, if not more.

There have been stories of people taking out their tight curves to make room for larger radiuses for locomotives with longer wheelbases. They build a long train and go think "WOW", that's really neat. However, you've now sidelined most of your other small locomotives so that only one train can run. After they've realized this, they put some small diameter curves and steeper grades in so that they can run their other engines. In the end, they ended up sidelining their larger engines.

The NMRA publishes specifications regarding trackage, such as spacing, clearances, and recommended curvatures for various scales and locomotives. Curves that are too tight will cause operational problems like derailing, uncoupling, and generally do not look realistic. Large steam locomotives with long wheelbases will also have problems.

An NMRA standards gauge is a useful tool to check trackwork and clearances.

[edit] Metal types

[edit] Clamps

The use of clamps between sections of tracks is highly recommended. The clamps connect at the bottom flange, inbetween ties, so they are hardly noticable. There are more reasons to use them, than not to use them. First, and perhaps formost, they hold the to two mating rails perfectly together. This helps to prevent derailments or track seperation. Secondly, it restores electrical conductivity at the rail joint; this doesn't mean you can space track feeders further apart though.

Clamps also allow you to easily remove a section of track. Simply remove the clamp, work on the section of track (switches, cross overs, etc) and reinstall the track with the same clamp as they can be used many times.

Clamps may be even more important in the garden than indoors. Because the track shrinks and expands depending the temperature, the track needs rooms to move. The clamps allow you to simply attach the clamps to the rails and allow you to float the track on/in the ballast, just like the real thing. This helps to prevent spaces or buckling in extreme temperatures.

[edit] See also - clamps

• Rail joints in the garden

[edit] Trucks and Wheelsets

Rolling stock generally perform better when using metal wheelsets versus the plastic ones that come with your cars. Here's a summary of some of the benefits:

• Keeps track cleaner - plastic rubs off, and soon you'll have a nice layer of insulating plastic on those hot summer days.
  • This is especially true for outdoor layouts that are exposed to the elements.
• Lowers center of gravity
• Help wheels track better around your layout

[edit] See Also

• Track wiring - What good is trackwork without proper track wiring.
• Programming Track - How to wire programming track safely.
• Blocks - Working with blocks, or track sections.
• Track cleaning in the garden - Cleaning the rails in the garden.