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[edit] Getting Started

The easiest (and typically cheapest) way to get up and running with DCC is to buy a DCC starter set. This typically includes the command station, booster (typically integrated into a single command station/booster unit), and a throttle. Usually starter sets are cheaper than buying individual items. Also, they typically do not include the power supply, so you'll have to check the starter package and buy accordingly.

DCC starter sets typically do not include tracks, trains, or rolling stock. A DCC starter set is just for the power components. Don't confuse a DCC starter set with a "holiday" or analog starter set which includes an analog power supply, a few sections of track, and a non-DCC equiped locomotive.

[edit] Selecting a Set

One of the most important choices in getting started in will be selecting which DCC manufacturer to use. For help on selecting a brand, or manufacturer, please see the selecting a system article. Although NMRA standards assure that conforming NMRA products are compatible at the track, command stations and throttles are not interchangeable between manufacturers. The decision on which system to go with is crucial as changing systems can be expensive. Although, you wouldn't be the first, or the last, to change systems. You will have to change the command station, and throttle network. You will not have to change mobile decoders and other decoders that connect to the track.

[edit] How much power?

The next major question you will have to answer is "How much power do I need?" Starter sets come in amperages ranging from 2.5 to 8amps. This decision is not as crucial as the first decision as you can always add more boosters to your layout at any time. (Need to add more content here - prewiring for districts, etc etc - see track wiring for now).

You don't need to concern yourself with track length when calculating power needs. The length of track is not important as you are powering your locomotives and other devices - the track just delivers the power, it doesn't consume it - assuming you have wired your track properly. (See Track wiring on how to properly wire your track.)

As each locomotive, rolling stock, and layout is different, the following is a rough guideline to get you started. These calculations are based on an HO scale layout. You'll need to double these numbers for S or O scales. You'll have to halve these numbers for N or Z scales. For G scale, 8amps should be your minimum starting point for outdoor layouts. Keep in mind, you can always add more power to your track layout with the use of a booster.

• Table comming soon - TazzyTazzy 16:29, 5 June 2007 (EDT) *

So you might be asking yourself "Why not just get the largest power supply and booster I can afford?" Initially this may sound like a great idea and that you would be prepared for some expansion or more running trains on your layout. However, too much power (amps) on the track can cause some serious damage to your locomotives and other rolling stock. For example, if wheels derail, for whatever reason - a bad turn out, sharp turn, etc - then you are at risk of causing a short. This short can melt the plastic mounts inside locomotives, burn up engines, or other rolling stock. It can also weld metal pieces together. The risk is minimized by the boosters short circuit protection devices, but if your track is not properly wired, the booster may not detect the short and thus keeps the power flowing while your locomotive starts smoking - and not from the smoke stacks. Power management devices, such as the Digitrax PM42, can split up the power from your booster into individual districts to help detect short circuits.

[edit] Next purchases

The following is a list of items that can be purchased to expand your layout. These are ideas to keep you on track to running your locomotives. You can pick and choose from below which best suits you.

• The starter set is just that, a starter set. It gets you moving a train. But, if you have a few locomotives, you'll need a few more decoders. See the decoder section for decoder selection and installation.

• However, before installing that decoder, we recommend you test it with a decoder tester. They typically run about $30 and can be found from various vendors.

• If you have a reverse section, you'll need an automatic reverser. Boosters typically have these built in, but if you have a reverse section, it's best to wire that independant of the main track. There are many different auto-reversers from various manufacturers, it's hard to find a bad reverser.

• It's fun running trains with friends. You'll need an additional throttle for each engineer. The Digitrak Zephyr lets you use 2 "old-style" DC power packs as 'jump throttles,' so you get 3 throttles for the price of the one Zephyr.

• Your need a throttle network to plug those additional throttles into. Each manufacturer has various ways of setting up their network. This typically involved running a wire from the command station to the area(s) where you will want to control the trains. The wire is terminated into a jack that allows you to plug throttles into.

[edit] What's Next

The next step is to lay track and get all the wires connected. Although the track wiring page is very long, it's important that you read it all at least once before laying a single piece of track.

Continue on to the track wiring page, at the bottom, you'll see a link to the track work page.